Re-furbished Dining Room Chairs

In trying to rid the Dining Room of the Blah-Brown phase we decided to try our hands at reupholstering the dining room chairs.  Now don’t get me wrong the fabric was durable and fabulous for hiding the occasional food spillage.  It was the overwhelming brown of every piece of furniture that prompted this change.

 

Changing out the material is a whole lot less expensive than buying new chairs and less time consuming than painting the wood.

I chose a blue weave upholstery material that I found fairly inexpensive at Fabric.com .  Maybe spent around $5.98 per yard and used around 3 1/2 yards to cover eight chairs.  What I loved about the site was the fact that you could buy sample swatches on the cheap so I could see the colors before investing in a bunch of yardage.  That, and they were the quickest at shipping out of four different fabric stores that I ordered online from.  So the cost of repurposing all eight chairs was less than $20.

Supplies needed:  Upholstery fabric, scissors, staple gun and staples, pliers and something to pry up old staples, and a screwdriver.

First unscrew the padded part of the chair from it’s base.

 

Once it’s separated from the chair notice how the material is folded and stapled to the base.  You’ll probably want to make similar folds on your new cushion.

 

Whoever constructed my chairs used a lot of staples (curse them). 

So then, you can either spend a lot of pry-time working out the staples, (I found pliers and a can tab opener to be my best friends for this job)…or

cut off as much of the old material as possible.  I ended up using this method on 7 of my 8 chairs.  Decided this option after spending 1 1/2 hours removing the staples from just one chair.

Then I flipped the wood over so that the old material would be on the top inside of the new pad.  I’ll explain this in a bit.

I reused the cushion because I was too cheap to go buy new and the old cushion was still in pretty good condition.  Then I cut out my new material using  the material from the first chair (which I unstapled) as a pattern.    Place the material (right side down) and put it on the floor.  Then added the foam (top side down) on top of the material and finally added the wood chair base (pretty [unstapled] side up).  Like this.

Once it’s all laid out you can trim the excess material off.  I even went a little further and cut out some small triangles in the corners to the fabric wouldn’t bunch up too much.

In before stapling the material to the wood base I folded a tiny edge so as to give  the material more durability when being stapled.  I could just imagine the staple pulling through the weave.  So folding seemed like the right thing to do.  Plus, it looks nicer should anyone decide to plop themselves on your floor and look at the underside of your chair seats.  Ha, like that will happen.

Then start stapling away.  I stapled side to side then back to front leaving the corners until last. 

Here’s my tip.  You can do all of this on your own – However, if you really want a smooth nice corner, enlist a friend to help with the stapling.  That way one person can hold the material to the proper tauntness (love making up new words), while the other staples away.  Ms. Passion helped me.   Thanks  to her the chairs turned out great.

Instead of gathering the corner and showing pleats when decided to try the method used by whomever it was that put my chairs together in the first place.  Ms. Passion called the fold a diaper fold.

It involves making tiny gathers on the underside of the seat while stretching the top side so that no gathers or pleats are visible.  

The final fold is what Ms. Passion called the diaper fold.    Once in place so that your corner looks great from the upper side, staple away.

We tackle the back corners of the chair first (less visible and more practice) and then worked on the front corners.  It was a little time consuming and took both of us around 8 hours spread out over three days.  A couple of the seats we ended up taking apart and trying again because the cushions had shifted while we were stretching the material.  But the finished project was gratifying.  You would never know they were a re-do.  Once the cushion meets your approval screw it back on to the chair.  Go slowly so that if the screw happens to catch a thread it won’t pull.

That’s it – You’re done!  And the final approval was immediately recognized by my fat cat Pumpkin.  He seems to think every new surface in my home is a brand new bed made just for him.

 

So from this…

 

to this  (Yeah, no more brown)…

Believe me, they will look great in my new dining room.

Nintendo DS Organizer Tutorial

I decided to make an organizer for my family’s Nintendo DS.  Same building principles could be used to make organizers for a Game-boy, or PSP, or about anything small.  Think in girly colors it would also hold small toys like Pet Shop Pet’s or Polly Pockets.  You determine the size you want.

Too simple to make. 

Supplies needed:  A recycled box, ruler, permanent pen, exacto knife, matching duct tape, button, elastic, material.  I used a bulk brownie box because it was a bit more durable than a cereal box and still not too bulky.

First guesstimated using game pieces how deep the box would have to be.  I then used a ruler and sharpie to draw my cutting lines.

I cut only the front and two sides with a Sharpie knife.  You’ll see why later.  

So it looked like this. 

Here’s my learning curve.  I had notched the corners because I originally intended to have a small lip folding over on those front three sides (you’ll see that in some of the pictures).  I ended taking off those folded over lips when I covered the box later.  They got in the way and were a Nuisance.  However I did learn not to just try and fold the cardboard because it doesn’t fold in a straight line.  So, where ever you have a fold, first lightly score that fold with your exacto knife.

The long back of the box I scored and then folded over the front.  Marking the excess that I could cut off.

 

In order for it to not be as bulky I also took out excess pieces of cardboard and re-enforced edges with a little strip of tape.

With the cardboard left over from the main box I cut a piece perfect for the inside bottom.  I’m not giving measurements because it all depends on the size of box you want to build.  However, make sure you measure twice before you cut.

I also wanted a few dividers.  So, measuring the height of the inside of the box (allowing for a padded bottom), I cut some extra strips of cardboard.  Leaving a little over a half an inch on each side to bend and secure it to the inner walls.

Remember to score the cardboard with your knife, where ever you need to fold it.  Use your game pieces to determine the sizes, leaving enough room around their edges to take them out.

I happened to have an imitation leather jacket that one of my sons had worn through.  The lining was in shambles and the collar was duct taped to hide the cracks.  It was heading to the dump.  But, then I thought that I could re-use the material for small bags and boxes like this one.  Oh, the joys of being a craft hoarder,  saving trash for a new life.  I suppose you could use any material you have laying around.  Might want to add a thin layer of batting if you material is super thin.

The quilted lining of the coat provided just what I wanted for the bottom of my organizer.  So, I took the lining and cut a piece large enough to go over the bottom cardboard insert piece.

Here’s another learning curve.  I tried first gluing it on.  Didn’t hold too well so I turned to the duct tape again to hold the lining to the bottom side of the cardboard that no one would see.

 

Then I cut a piece of the faux leather from the back of the coat and made sure I had enough (with a little extra, mine was almost too little) for the entire outside of the box.

Using coordinating (black) duct take I was able to tape the leather to the box.  I would fold it over the sides and tape it in.

Not sure how to explain how to trim the leather.  But where ever there were corners I made sure to trim so there wouldn’t be bunches of material wadded up.

The sides were the trickiest.  First I taped a small section of the front and back to the cardboard, then I folded the side sections up and over that taped section.  I even used a little glue to secure the leather would stick to the cardboard.

Once the leather was secured to the outside of the box, I filled in the remaining inside area of the flap with more duct tape.  Trying to make the tape lay as smooth as possible.  Then I placed the lined cardboard in the bottom of the box.

The box is pretty sturdy and baring some child stepping on it should hold up quite well.

The dividers are what I added next.  First, I put matching (of course duct tape on one side.  Then, the next piece of duct tape that I used for the other side of the cardboard strip, well, I cut it a wee bit longer so the tape could hold the folded edges to the inside walls of the box.  Don’t know if that made any sense, but it involves using duct tape to adhere the dividers into their positions.

Then I filled up the sections of my new organizer.  Yeah.

 

To the front of the flap I sewed on a button.  I’m sure you could use Velcro too.  I just wanted to use what I could find laying around.  I also had a thin string of elastic.  I had to use a black permanent pen to color it black because it was white to begin with.

 

Tie a know in the elastic and loop it around the button.  Then stretch it around the box and loop it back over the button from the opposite direction.

And there you have it.  A mini-organizer to keep those game pieces and stylus’s from getting lost.

It can be stored in almost any position.  Here it is in a cubby of my china hutch.

I think you could also decorate this box using Mod-Podge and decorative paper.  I lined a Hidden Book compartment with Mulberry paper and Mod Podge once and it turned out terrific too.  Let your imagination guide you.  I made this organizer when I heard about the recycled box challenge here. 

That and I also needed a cheap way to organize some kid stuff.

Happy Crafting.

Fairy Door Tutorial

Being summer time we wanted some extra enchantment for the girls.  And we decided to share it with the community.    So I made a wooden outdoor Fairy Door.  And I’m going to share my learning curve with you.

I decided to enter a craft challenge using knobs and hinges by Fireflies & Jellybeans.

My inspiration was an old stump at a local park.  Nearly every time we go the girls clean out the little nook and line it with twigs, feathers, berries, etc.  Offerings for their fairy friends. 

So we made a rough outline of the stump’s nook’s opening and traced it onto a piece of pine board.

I wanted a door that would open, so inside of the original outline I drew a door with a rounded top.

Then I did something really brave.  I pulled out a scroll saw and without any male assistance what-so-ever I used it to cut out my little fairy door.  I know a jigsaw would work just as well.

Here’s my learning curve.  Use a thicker blade.  The blade on the scroll saw was very thin and didn’t allow enough room for the inner door to open.  So I had to go around the inside door and shave a little bit more off the shape.

Then I sanded down all sides of the door.

Then, Wowser, I picked up a tool I’ve never before used.  A Dremel.  I used it to carve little wooden slats in the front of my fairy door.  I would sometimes bounce off of the line I was supposed to be following.  Oh well,  it just gave the door more character.

Then I pulled out a tool for which I feel a lot more comfortable.  My wood-burner tool – it’s my friend.  And I added some twirly vines, pixie dust and this charming quote from Albert Einstein,

‘Imagination is more important than Knowledge.’

 

Knowing this door is intended for outside use.  I used a couple of different colors to stain it with.  A red stain for the door.

 

Here’s a different use for some of your scrapbook markers.  What I like about using them is I could color in details, and they are acid free and don’t fade.  Afterwards I lightly wiped a light oak color stain over the outer frame of my fairy door.  Once the stain was dry, I also added a couple of coats of an outdoor sealer.

  

Then I added the hinges and knobs.  I think I had to go to 5 different stores to find something suitable.  I decided to use a rose push pin as a wreath hanger for the door.

 

Here’s another learning curve.  Pre-mark and drill the holes for your hinges, it will go a lot faster.   Here’s something else I learned.  You may not want to attach your door until after you have installed it in it’s new home.  Why?  Because the door may get in the way of you attaching it to whatever it is you are attaching it too.

I think it turned out quite nice for my first outdoor Fairy Door.  See even my dremel slip-up look like they are supposed to be there, like the door has been aged a bit.

Once completed we snuck back to our secret stump at one of our favorite playgrounds.

Here’s another hint.  Pre-drill your frame where your supporting screws will be attaching it to the stump.    Make sure you are going from a front inside frame edge to a back outside edge (angled) slant.  Because chances are you don’t have a screwdriver tiny enough to fit in between the frame.  (See how a pre-attached door can get in the way) Also counter sink those angled screws so they don’t stop the door from closing.  Believe me, you will probably want to take a small chargeable drill.  I won’t tell you how long it took me to screw the door into the stump.  Stupid Striped screws.

After working on it for a couple of hours I even ended up having my husband come and help.   Thanks Prince Erik for your help.  I can handle power tools great but a plain old screwdriver was giving me fits.

Once it was screwed to the stump I used a bit of some heavy duty outdoor glue to  glue twigs and moss between the frame and stump to hide the screws.  Now it almost looks as if the little people put it there.

Hey, but now there’s a little magic at the community park.

 

And it opens so little hands and hearts can grow their own imagination.  

Of course, I hope it lasts.  I hope some troll doesn’t destroy our little gift.  It was quite fun to make and I’m sure we will make many more.  I think some little matching windows are now calling me.

 

I created this first and foremost to keep my heart young and full of imagination.  But I also made the Outdoor Fairy Door as a Iron Crafter Challenge from Fireflies & Jellybeans.  The secret ingredient that we had to use was Knobs and Hinges.  While I didn’t re-write the book on how basic knobs and hinges are used.  I think presenting them in miniature form can open up a whole new world of imagination.